Baja by Kayak Mothership Ursa Major

Sea Kayaking aboard Ursa Major in the Sea of Corez in Feb, 2006. We travel from La Paz to Loreto, and return.

Ursa Major underway on the Sea of Cortez.
Ursa Major underway on the Sea of Cortez.

February, 2006. Baja, MX. After 28 or so consecutive rain days in a dreary Seattle, the sweet, dry desert air of La Paz, enveloped us in bliss. We boarded the charter yacht Ursa Major, and the next morning motored out of the marina, heading north across La Paz Bay in the Sea of Cortez. Brown Pelican, Frigatebird and Boobie soared above, the jagged spires of the Sierra de la Giganta began its rise to the west, and Manta Rays leaped airborne out of the sea, flashing black-white-black before slapping hard on the water.

We made our way to Loreto, and then returned over the course of two weeks. The Baja penninsula is mostly Sonoran desert, like Arizona. Juxtaposed against the aqua-marine Sea of Cortez, there is simply no place like it on earth, a dry dreamscape and a sea full of life. The land features Cardon cactus, a Saguaro relative, and many endemics. Marine life includes the largest mammal ever to roam the planet – the Blue Whale. One morning, motoring toward Isla Carmen, we came upon a feeding frenzy signaled by massing Frigatebird and Boobie. Common Dolphin tore the water like a rip tide. From its midst a Blue Whale emerged, and then the Dolphin, sensing some fun, surrounded our boat, riding our bow wave and boat wake, frolicking like children at a new game.

Dinner in the Ursa Major Salon
Dinner in the Ursa Major Salon

Ursa Major is based in Sitka, Alaska, in summer. This was her first trip to Baja. For a kayak mothership adventure, SE Alaska is a great choice, avoiding the perils of bad weather, bugs and bears of the self-contained trip. But Baja is a fantastic winter escape, and the mothership not only cherry picks the paddling spots, but in Baja offers offshore adventure that gets you out where the whales feed. Too, Baja winters are windy, but the wind hardly effects the mothership. She motors to the next protected bay, where she drop the hook and prepares your next meal while you snorkel, paddle or head for shore, whatever your fancy.

Ursa Major will offer crusies out of Loreto and La Paz next winter.